▴ 2022 Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Giant Steps
2022, Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Giant Steps, Yarra Valley, Victoria
Owned by Jackson Family Wines since 2020, Giant Steps is back in the news again having been named as the Halliday Guide’s winery of the year. And on the showing of this impressive Chardonnay (and its 2022 Primavera Pinot Noir below), I’m not remotely surprised.
The Sexton vineyard is ideally situated on the steep north-facing slopes of the Warramate Ranges. Here the thin topsoils of gravelly loams sit above rocky clay to give low yields of concentrated fruit with good acidity. 2022 was a cool, high quality vintage with significantly lower yields than usual. In her very first vintage as winemaker Melanie Chester transferred the whole-bunch pressed fruit to barrel where it was wild fermented in 500L French puncheons. After a small amount of batonnage, 20% of the wine was put through the malolactic. Thereafter, it was matured for 10 months in new French oak (20%) and 80% in used, older barrels including Taransaud and Mercurey.
This is a super impressive wine with plenty going on from the exciting attack to the long finish. The citrus and toast nose has a pleasing whisper of reduction. On the palate, it is dry, taut and fresh with citrus and apple, toast, hazelnut, umami and gun flint. Excellent concentration, depth and balance through throughout. Already delightful to drink, this has the acidity, balance and structure to age with ease for another 5-6 years plus. 13%
Drink 2024 to 2032
RRP £55 per bottle.
Review Dec 2024, JS