▻ Omnibus Seventeenth Edition
Episode Seventeen
Episode Summary:-
In another news-packed edition of Omnibus, we review the latest developments in the wine world and ask the all-important question, “Are any of the Royal Family wine lovers?” First up, Sarah and John Stimpfig congratulate Jane Anson on winning the IWSC Communicator of the Year Award and reveal that there is a special discount, especially for Wine Conversation listeners, to her highly regarded website www.janeanson.com (see further information).
Then John pays tribute to three great wine men, all leading members of their family’s companies, who recently passed away. André Hugel of the famous Alsace family company Famille Hugel, Christian de Billy of Champagne Pol Roger and Louis Fabrice Latour of Maison Louis Latour, the Burgundy negociant. He also reports on a move that has caused quite a lot of comment: François Pinault’s Artémis group, owner of Château Latour, Clos du Tart, Château Grillet and Napa’s Eisele Vineyard, has bought a majority stake in Maisons & Domaine Henriot, which owns Bouchard Père et Fils in Burgundy, William Fèvre in Chablis, Maison Henriot in Champagne, and Beaux Frères in Oregon. John discusses the sale and, though the price has not been disclosed, he believes it could be over one billion euros.
There’s also some Royal anxiety this month. No, not Prince Harry’s memoir (yet), but the news that the late Queen Elizabeth II’s Royal Warrants will be reviewed after a two-year period, which is the custom when a monarch dies. Royal warrants are granted to companies who regularly supply goods or services to the relevant Royal household. John relates which wine companies have been granted the highly prestigious Royal Warrant by our late Majesty the Queen. They include wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd, Corney & Barrow, Justerini & Brooks, and Lea & Sandeman; Champagne houses Roederer, Mumm, Lanson, Krug, Pol Roger, Moët, Bollinger, Veuve Clicquot all have warrants, also Port houses Symington Family Estate and Taylor’s Port. King Charles, in his previous role as Prince of Wales, had granted warrants to Berry Brothers, Champagne Laurent Perrier and Cornwall’s Camel Valley. John and Sarah discuss how the Royal Family are not known for their interest in wine, but Sarah reveals that Camilla, the Queen Consort, is in fact a wine merchant’s daughter as well as granddaughter of Philip Morton Shand, who wrote several notable books on wine, including A Book of French Wine. The Queen Consort appears to be the most knowledgeable member of the Royal Family when it comes to wine, and recently commented that she was born in a very good claret vintage, 1947.
““Our dear Royal Family are not known for being great wine lovers, but our Queen Consort comes from a wine trade family.” ”
From America, our US editor Elin McCoy reports on the news that Gaylon Lawrence, owner of Heitz Cellars and Burgess Cellars in the Napa Valley, has purchased a majority share in Château Lascombes, the second-growth Bordeaux château in Margaux. Elin says details about the deal are sketchy, but will report back when more is known. She also discusses the legacy of Fred Franzia, who recently died and was behind one of the US’s most successful wine brands, Charles Shaw, usually nicknamed “Two-Buck Chuck,” which sold for US $1.99 when it was launched. Pugnacious and frequently adversarial, Franzia was highly controversial in the wine world – he was found guilty of fraud charges in 1994 – but he was also a leader in converting vineyards to organic, and Elin applauds his efforts in allowing people to buy organic wine at an affordable price. She also reports that the California harvest is over, and, despite drought, heatwaves, and a reduced yield of 15-30%, it looks like being a stellar vintage.
Circling back to New York, she talks about three historic tastings which took place in October. First was a tasting to celebrate 60 years of Ridge Vineyard. “Ridge did everything right, from the beginning,” Elin says, from ingredient labelling on their bottles, to organic viticulture, to taking care of their workers – they always led the way. She describes the tasting of their flagship wine, Monte Bello: “It’s my absolute favourite California Cabernet,” she confesses, and describes the different vintages served at the Gramercy Tavern event. The second tasting Elin attended was the 20th anniversary of Ca’ Marcanda, Gaja’s Bolgheri estate in Tuscany. The tasting was hosted by the third winemaking generation of the Gaja family, including Gaia Gaja and Giovanni Gaja, Angelo Gaja’s children. Elin describes how the wines have evolved and how the blend has changed over the 20 years – another milestone tasting. The last tasting she reports on is 100 years of Château Le Puy, AOC Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. This historic property is owned by the Amoreau family, and though it is in a relatively unknown part of Bordeaux, it has a cult following. The tasting drew wine critics from across the globe, and 20 vintages were served, from 1921 to 2021. Elin describes the older vintages and marvels at them: “These wines are still going strong, which were produced 100 years ago.” Her last report is on the successful auction of Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista 2019 Il Vigore. Artist Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg were commissioned to create unique artwork for large format bottles of the Vendemmia d’Artista Ornellaia 2019. The auction raised US$300,000 for the Guggenheim Museum’s Mind’s Eye programme, which helps visually impaired people to experience art using more of their senses.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 17.20
“Some believe the value (of the Artémis Henriot deal) is in the region of, or excess of, one billion euros.” – John Stimpfig
– We recall the lives of André Hugel, Christian de Billy of Champagne Pol Roger and Louis Fabrice Latour, of Maison Louis Latour.
– A new super-group of vineyards is formed, with Artémis buying a majority stake in Maison Henriot. -
17.21 – 22.42
“ I was born in a very good claret vintage, 1947.” – The Queen Consort
– The wine world’s Royal Warrants are up for review following the death of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.
– The Royal Family and their knowledge of wine. -
22.43 – 33.37
“Fred Franzia wasn’t controversial, he was wildly controversial.” – Elin McCoy
– Gaylon Lawrence buys Château Lascombes, 2nd growth Bordeaux.
– Elin McCoy discusses the offbeat life and wine of Fred Franzia.
– The 2022 harvest in California. -
33.38 – 01.11
“Ridge did everything right, from the beginning.” – Elin McCoy
– Elin McCoy talks about three great anniversary tastings: .
– The 60th anniversary of Ridge Vineyards.
– The 20th anniversary of Ca’ Marcanda, Gaja’s Bolgheri property.
– 100 years of Château Le Puy.
– The Ornellaia Vendemmia d’Artista auction raises $300,000 for a Guggenheim Museum program.
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Further Information:-
Special offer for Wine Conversation listeners to www.janeanson.com – 10% discount using code XMAS2022 – ends December 31st 2022.
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