▻ Hannes Myburgh of Meerlust

Great Wine Lives

10 Jul

Written By Sarah Kemp

John Stimpfig in conversation with Hannes Myburgh of Meerlust

Episode Summary:-

On the 50th anniversary of Meerlust’s first vintage, John Stimpfig talks to Hannes Myburgh, the eighth-generation owner of Meerlust, one of South Africa’s iconic estates. Hannes discusses how his family were originally Dutch and settled on the Meerlust Estate in 1756. (The first owner of the historic property arrived in 1693 and called his home “Meerlust” meaning “pleasure of the sea,” as the manor house sits only 5km from False Bay.)

Hannes’s ancestors practiced mixed farming, but it was his father Nico who bravely decided to convert the farm to vines in the 1960s and 1970s. He was inspired by a trip to Bordeaux, and recognised the many similarities between the Medoc and Meerlust, a maritime climate with similar soil. Today the estate is 160 hectares, with 100 given over to vines. In the winter the cattle are let into the vineyards, when there is no chance they will eat the vines, but will forage and eat weeds and grass, and of course fertilize the soil.

Originally there was a mix of different varieties, Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Muscat, among others, but Hannes’s father’s arranged for cuttings of Cabernet Franc and Merlot to be sent over to the estate after his Bordeaux trip. “He was overwhelmed by Bordeaux and the French, and came away inspired,” says Hannes.

The first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon was 1975, released in 1978, the year Giorgio Dalla Cia joined as winemaker. Nico Myburgh had borrowed him for the 1978 vintage, from Distillers Corporation (there had been no permanent winemaker until then), and he stayed for 25 years. Although he was an Italian from Friuli, Giorgio was a serious Francophile, and believed in the idea of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, which Meerlust had been the first to plant. Hannes explains how at first people were nasty about the Bordeaux blend movement, but his father and Giorgio took no notice and followed their own path.

In 1984 they released the Bordeaux blend Rubicon, which took its name from the story of when Julius Caesar is supposed to have led his troops towards Rome in 49BC and crossed the Rubicon River, a moment which would shift the course of Roman politics and there could be no turning back. They registered the name before Francis Ford Coppola, whose lawyers later came to an agreement with theirs. The wine immediately won awards, including “champion red wine” at the South African Championship Show.

Hannes discusses how, after he left Stellenbosch University, he went to the Rheingau for six months, and worked during the 1976 season, then went to Paris, and took on a variety of odd jobs: grooming horses, courier, barman and, unusually, the official person to clap at fashion shows. It was through people he met in the fashion industry that he obtained an internship at Château Lafite, which deepened his interest in wine.

““I’ve seen the world through a wine glass.” ”

— Hannes Myburg

He returned to work with his father and Giorgio, but his father died young, at the age of 64, so at 31 years old he took on the responsibility for Meerlust. He tells John the changes he made to the estate, and how he tried to get rid of the Boss stereotype system, at a time when the country was still under Apartheid, and the initiatives he is proud to have started, included the Meerlust Workers Trust.

Among the changes made was investment in new barrels, smaller tanks and planting Chardonnay in 1995, at a time when Chardonnay had a bad reputation in South Africa. When Giorgio officially retired (though Hannes points out he has never really retired, as he is still involved) the assistant winemaker, Chris Williams, took over, and in his tenure oversaw a move to lowering the wood content and bringing the fruit forward. There have only been three cellarmasters in Meerlust’s 50-year history, and since 2020 it has been Wim Truter, who John describes as a “rock star” winemaker.

When asked how to describe Meerlust’s style, Hannes responds with “restrained elegance”. He puts it down to the maritime influence on their doorstep, the reason they can do Bordeaux blends, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the same estate.

He enjoys travelling but loves being at home with his eight dogs, and reflects on his wine life, which he describes as “seeing the world through a wine glass.” It seems, listening to his story, not a bad view.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 15.15

"Meerlust means 'pleasure of the sea'.”

– The history of Meerlust.
– Eight generations of the Myburgh family at Meerlust.
– Size of estate and original planting.
– Nico Myburgh’s trip to Bordeaux.
– Arrival of Giorgio Dalla Cia.
15.15 – 34.55

“He was overwhelmed by Bordeaux, the French, and came away inspired.” – Hannes Myburgh about his father

– Meerlust plants Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
– The early vintages.
– Creating Rubicon, the Bordeaux blend.
– Hannes internships in Germany and Château Lafite.
– Hannes takes over from this father, makes changes.
34.56 – 54.24

“I’ve seen the world through a wine glass.”

– The arrival of Chardonnay at Meerlust.
– The three cellar masters in Meerlust’s 50-year history.
– New investment in the cellar.
– The style of Meerlust.

Tasting Notes by John Stimpfig:

Meerlust Rubicon Flight

Meerlust Rubicon 1980
Rubicon’s debut commercial vintage, made by a young Giorgio Dalla Cia, was matured in Yugoslavian oak vats for 22 months, with the final blend comprising 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. It was released in 1984 for just 10 Rand. Forty five years on, this rare, iconic red is fully mature with a truffle and mushroom bouquet on the nose. The light-bodied palate is suffused with sous-bois, cep, balsam and savoury meat with hints of leafy red fruits and a moderate finish. Considering its age and that the grapes were mostly sourced from young vines, this is still very much alive and offers appealing freshness, delicacy and lacey tannins. A significant wine of its time that still affords pleasure.

Drink: Now / Alcohol: 11.8% / Price: N/A

Meerlust Rubicon 1995
The 1995 Rubicon comes from a small, reduced and concentrated crop following a dry growing season on the farm. The blend was similar to the 1980 with 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. All three grapes were fermented separately in steel tanks and were then blended after the MLF. The wine was then aged 300L Nevers oak barrels for 18 months – 80% new and 20% second fill. It was then aged a further 24 months before release.

This is a lovely mature wine with concentration, depth, flesh, fruit and complexity. Compared to the restrained 1980 it feels positively rich and ripe as well as balanced. Also fully mature, it has retained some vestiges of attractive blue-black fruits, spice and leather notes alongside the savoury undergrowth and a balsamic character. It shows good acidity and ripe, polished tannins, partly thanks to the new oak component. Offering good length and lots of pleasure, it should remain on this plateau for the next 5-10 years.

Drink: Now to 2035 / Alcohol 12.8% / Bottle Price: Circa £125.00 ex tax / Stockists: See Wine-searcher

Meerlust Rubicon 2001
The 2001 Rubicon is another milestone wine for the estate having it picked up the prestigious Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Trophy for the Best International Red Blend at the IWSC in 2006. Clearly another step up in quality, 2001 was a superb, dry, warm growing season in the Cape. The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The winemaking was the same as in 1995.

Nearly 25 years on, this still has an intense primary nose with savoury notes of coffee and iodine. The palate is full but not overdone, showing flesh and richness with fine acidity and plush, generous tannins. Brambly cassis fruit, dark cherry, iodine, liquorice and mocha vie for attention in the mouth with savoury tree bark. Medium-full bodied, this has harmony, depth and length. There is maturity and bottle age here, but this still has some way to go. Impressive.

Drink: Now to 2040+ / Alcohol 13.5% / Bottle Price: Circa £82.00 ex tax / Stockists: See Wine-searcher

Meerlust Rubicon 2015
Made by Chris Williams who took over from Giorgio Dalla Cia as cellarmaster in 2004, the blend for the 2015 is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot 12% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. By this time, the vines were more established, much older and were yielding much higher quality fruit. Vineyard techniques also included green harvesting, canopy management, leaf removal and bunch selection.

The winemaking had also evolved. All four varieties were fermented separately in new and second fill barrels. After 9 months in barrel, the four component parts were then blended and went through another 9 months ageing in barrel before bottling.

A decade on, this is a stand-our Rubicon. Stylistically, it is much more modern with a deep core of intense primary fruit comprising sweet cassis, blueberry and bramble with a hint of toasty oak, leather, coffee grind and liquorice adding complexity. The texture is rich and plush but in no way overblown as the acidity and ripe tannin work in perfect harmony. The finish is long, dry and satisfying. Although still in its first flush of youth this is drinking beautifully now. So drinkers have the difficult choice of whether to pull the cork or wait a few more years. Both will be deeply rewarding experiences.

Drink: Now to 2040+ / Alcohol: 14% / Bottle Price: Circa £55.00 inc tax / Stockists: RAKQ

Meerlust Rubicon 2021
Wim Truter’s second vintage in charge at Meerlust, the 2021 was a sublime vintage in the Cape with good water levels and cooler temperatures during the growing season. This resulted in a late harvest of supremely elegant fruit with good ripeness, generous alcohol levels as well as low pHs and high acidity. There were some late rains in Stellenbosch but, by then, the Meerlust crop was safely in the cellar.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (48%), Merlot (46%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (1%), plots of each parcel of each variety was fermented separately before undergoing the malolactic fermentation in 300L barrels and large foudres.

There’s no question that this is one of the finest Rubicons of the modern era with deep colour and sublime floral and fruit notes on the intense nose. The palate is densely and elegantly packed with violets, sweet cassis, graphite, chocolate, minerals, tobacco and liquorice. At 14.2% ABV, this is well-structured but feels pleasurably opulent and fresh thanks to the ripe grainy tannins and flowing acidity. In addition, it displays fabulous purity, texture and balance as well as magnificent finish. This is a classy and sophisticated wine that provides considerable enjoyment as well as ageing potential.

Drink now to 2045+ / Alcohol: 14.2% / Bottle Price: Circa £39.00 inc tax / Stockists: Frontier Fine Wines, Rakq, Fortnum & Mason, Waitrose Fine Wine, Majestic, Wine Society

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon Flight

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 1975
Meerlust’s first ever wine, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was picked early and given a short maceration before fermentation and maturation in large oak casks. Pale, brick red, but with surprisingly good colour this wine is fully mature. The restrained, dry leafy style is typical of its era. Most importantly, this light-bodied red is still eminently drinkable with a touch of residual cassis and cherry fruit, mushroom, forest floor and balsam. The tannins are soft and slight but the bright acidity has kept this wine going. Almost inevitably the wine fades a little on the finish. Very few bottles remain.

Alcohol: Not Known / Drink: Now / Price: N/A

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 1980
Made by Giorgio Dalla Cia who used smaller oak barrels and went for a slightly more extracted style. Hence the wine has a touch more colour and depth than the 75. 1980 was also a cool year and this mature wine is showing beautifully with a dry red fruit profile, fruitcake, cep and sous bois. This classical wine would appeal to traditional claret drinkers, (which is possibly one of the reasons why I like it). It is light-medium in body and has good acidity and soft light, grainy tannins. A decent finish, this is also fully mature.

Alcohol: Not specified / Drink: Now / Price: N/A

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 1993
A delicious and impressive wine that has also held up remarkably well. This 1993 was also on the receiving end of more extraction and oak treatment. Tasting it in 2025, cedar and undergrowth mingle with savoury cassis on the nose. The palate offers gentle concentration with notes of delicate blackcurrant, balsam and cigar box. Thanks to the new oak and the extraction, this has a touch more depth and tannic heft than its older siblings. But the wine still remains fine boned and elegant with sleek acidity. A good finish too.

Alcohol: 12% / Drink: Now to 2030 / Price: £17.00 ex tax / Stockists: See Wine-searcher

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
2014 saw a good, cool growing season at Meerlust which shows in this impressive effort by Chris Williams. Much more modern in style, this is bigger and fuller with lovely ripe, primary fruit, fine abundant tannins and bright balancing acidity. Super aromatics on display, the palate is alive also with cherry, cassis and plum fruit, underpinned by some supple, creamy oak and cocoa powder. Great purity, vineyard expression and a sublime finish.

Alcohol 14% / Drink Now to 2040+ / Price: £26.00 ex tax / Stockists: See Wine-searcher

Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
As with the 21 Rubicon, this benefited from one of the Cape’s best vintages with well-timed rainfall and cool temperatures extending the hang time of the grapes. Today, this youthful wine is showing beautifully with floral and fruit aromatics and even more on the palate. Vibrant blue black fruits dominate with cassis, blackberry and blueberry as well as violets, tobacco pouch, minerals and graphite. The acidity is terrific while the tannins are ripe and succulent. Medium-full bodied, this is beautifully composed and structured with a long, lingering finish.

Alcohol 14% / Drink Now to 2050+ / Price: Circa £29.00 / Stockists: Frontier Fine Wines, RAKQ, The Savanna

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