▻ Mike Ratcliffe
John Stimpfig in conversation with Mike Ratcliffe of Vilafonté
Episode Summary:-
Mike Ratcliffe is one of South Africa’s most dynamic producers. He talks to John Stimpfig about his remarkable life. He grew up with his parents at Warwick Estate, where his mother, Norma Ratcliffe, was known as South Africa’s First Lady of Wine. “It was a wonderful childhood,” he reminisces, as he recounts how his mother was one of the first vintners to bottle varietal Cabernet Franc. After taking a degree, he followed his first love, sailing, and spent time racing and skippering boats. The pull of the wine world was too strong, however, and he returned to the family estate, after persuading his parents to support him taking the Wine MBA in Australia, as he felt he had insufficient knowledge of the industry.
In the early 1990s, he met Zelma Long and Dr Phil Freese, she an eminent California winemaker, and he an internationally acclaimed winegrowing advisor. They had been invited to South Africa as guests of the Cape Wine Producers Association. Both of them fell in love with the land and were intrigued by the country’s soils (they’re the oldest documented soils in the world). Though he was still young, Zelma and Phil decided to “take a chance on him” and formed a 50/50 partnership to create Vilafonté. The aim was to make a great red blend, a South African Grand Cru, a single wine.
The vineyard had different ideas. Zelma eventually informed Mike that there were two distinct expressions in the vineyard, and she refused to blend them, so Vilafonté M (Merlot-dominated) and Vilafonté C (Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated) were born. The third wine from the vineyard was their second wine, “Seriously old dirt.” Mike discusses the vineyard and that Zelma had fallen in love with Malbec in Argentina, and that they decided to plant the varietal in the vineyard, though they sourced a clone from France.
Three years ago Zelma and Phil decided to retire and sold their shares to Mike; however, he laughs as he tells John that they are still actively involved and just spent six weeks helping with the vintage. Their first vintage was 2003, as the 2002 vintage was not considered good enough to release under the Vilafonté label. Though they are the biggest premium producer in South Africa (they make less than 50,000 cases). Mike says he believes that South Africa needs more premium producers: “I do think for South Africa to be more globally recognised in the fine wine category, you need to be able to produce a wine that you can put on a wine list for Michelin-star restaurants in Tokyo, Geneva, London and Los Angeles simultaneously, rather than have your entire production gobbled up by tourists in Cape Town.”
Mike admits that they never stop trying new things. One of the challenges he is posing his team is whether the original vision of creating a single wine can be achieved. Trials are on the way and he believes a decision will be made before 2030, but it will only go ahead if “it is tangibly and obliviously better.”
Yeast strains and irrigation systems are also areas where Vilafonté is pioneering new ideas, and Mike discusses how the trials are going. In 2017 a Silicon Valley fund approached him to buy Warwick Estate, and as there was no obvious succession plan, he decided to go ahead, so he could concentrate on Vilafonté.
““I have always been passionate about blended red wines. I have always believed in blending as the art of extracting the greatest possibilities out of every possible vintage and have the luxury of downplaying weaknesses and exaggerating strengths.””
Mike has also been active as an industry leader. He helped found the Cape Wine Auction, which was modelled on the Napa Valley Wine Auction and the Hospices de Beaune. He is proud that every cent goes to a children’s charity. He is also active advising other people in the industry, with clients as far afield as the US and southern England. In 2018 he became the chairman of the Stellenbosch Wine Route, and, subsequently, Visit Stellenbosch.
The 2025 vintage is looking good, he tells John, both for quality and quantity. His thoughts about the future of South African wine? “The depth of talent in South Africa is outrageous,” he says, but he emphasises the need for producers to “make one more barrel” so they can stretch their offering to the whole world. As Mike Ratcliffe is only halfway through his “Great Wine Life,” we know there is a lot more excitement to come.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 26.44
“I’d probably just describe myself as a wine guy.”
– Growing up in a famous wine family.
– Meeting Zelma Long and Dr Phil Freese and the creation of Vilafonté.
– The soil at Vilafonté and the ambition to create a South African grand cru. -
26.44 – 43.30
“We made three Bordeaux blends and they all come from the same vineyard.”
– The first vintage of Vilafonté 2003.
– The fine-wine category in South Africa.
– Mike’s 100-year plan.
– The trial for a single wine from Vilafonté.
– Experimentation with yeast strains.
– Vilafonté’s irrigation system. -
43.30 – 01.13
“I have always been passionate about blended red wines. I have always believed in blending as the art of extracting the greatest possibilities out of every possible vintage.”
– Mike’s rationale for blending.
– Co-founding the Cape Wine Auction.
– Launching Wine Business Advisors.
– Chairing Stellenbosch Wine Routes and Visit Stellenbosch.
– Views on the 2025 vintage.
– Mike’s hope for the future of the South African wine industry.
RELATED POSTS
Keep up with our adventures in wine
Mike Ratcliffe, one of South Africa’s most dynamic producers, talks to John Stimpfig for our series “Great Wine Lives”.