▻ The Wine Society’s Wines
Sarah Kemp in conversation with John Stimpfig
Episode Summary:-
The Wine Society is one of Britain’s most-loved institutions. Founded by the architect of the Albert Hall and a renowned ophthalmic surgeon in 1874, it was set up as a cooperative where each member bought a share, and wines are sold at the lowest possible price. Past members have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, author of Sherlock Holmes’ adventures, Sir John Galsworthy, best known for the Forsyte Saga novels, and Sir Alexander Fleming, who discovered penicillin. Two slightly less-famous members are John Stimpfig and Sarah Kemp. In September, John attended The Wine Society’s press tasting and picked out 12 wines which he thought would be of interest to Sarah and listeners of The Wine Conversation. John and Sarah have tasted alongside each other over the years, and while John believes their palates are broadly similar, he admits they are not exclusively so. The 12 wines John chose were sent to Sarah and John, and they tasted them separately before having this conversation. What does Sarah think of John’s choices? And what does John think of his original choices now that he has them at home and is trying them with food? (Spoiler alert: What they do agree on is that they are 12 wines well worth talking about.)
““It’s a very much-loved organisation.””
Before they look at the wines, John relates how The Wine Society came into existence; surprisingly, it was by accident. Some Portuguese wines from well-regarded producers were to be tasted at a big exhibition at the Albert Hall in London, but got lost in the building, which obviously infuriated the Portuguese producers. Two oenophiles, Major-General Henry Scott, the architect of the Albert Hall, and R. Brudenell Carter, a renowned ophthalmic surgeon, found the wines, and to avoid a diplomatic incident set up a series of lunches where the Portuguese wines could be tasted. Such was the success of the lunches that they decided to go further and set up a special organisation for wine lovers to try the best international wines at the fairest price. The original objects of the Society were “To purchase and import foreign wines and sell them at cheap rates to members of the society. To introduce other foreign, hitherto unknown, or little-known wines to the Society.” John and Sarah agree that the original objectives continue to hold true today.
Sarah explains that when she joined many years ago, you had to be referred, but today you can become a member and shareholder for £40 and that while most of the 180,000 members are predominantly in the United Kingdom, they do accept overseas members (and they’ve recently had to announce that delivery needs to be organised by a third party, due to the global supply issues caused by Brexit).
Wine Notes:-
The wines discussed are as follows, with John’s tasting notes and comments by Sarah Kemp.
The Society’s Champagne Brut NV, Champagne, France
Made by the perennially reliable and excellent Maison Alfred Gratien, this is a blend of 62% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Meunier and 7% Pinot Noir. As always, the wine is fermented and aged in oak, providing a sense of richness and depth. At the same time, the wine doesn’t go through the malolactic fermentation in order to retain its lightness, zip and zing. The result is a dry, more-ish and beautifully balanced Champagne that will be a pleasure to drink at Xmas and beyond. 12.5%. £17.50/half bottle and £34/bottle
Seméli Mantinia Moschofilero 2021, Peloponnese, Greece
Looking for a white wine that is different and unusual? If so, this 100% Moschofilero is well worth checking out, especially at just under £12. Based in Nemea, the Seméli winery has made quite a name for itself in the Peloponnese for both indigenous and international varieties. This wine’s fruit comes from the famed region of Mantinia and is fermented and aged in stainless steel. The palate is dry, tangy and fresh with citrus, peach and quince flavours, finishing with a pleasing bitterness. The impressive winery also provides a range of offerings for visitors and tourists including tastings, rooms and suites. 12.5%. £11.95
SK – a wine to transport you back to the olive groves of Greece
The Foundry Grenache Blanc, Voor Paardeberg 2021, Swartland, South Africa
You don’t see much Grenache Blanc in the Cape and this, IMHO, is an outstanding example. Whilst some Grenache Blanc can be quite ripe and fat, this is deliciously crisp, clean and precise on the attack. There’s also citrus, white peach and honeysuckle with a touch of oatmeal on the mid-palate, followed by a fine, tapering finish. Good mouthfeel and complexity here, this really opens up and develops in the glass over the course of a meal. The grapes come from decomposed granite soils in the Swartland and were fermented in terracotta (30%), barrel (40%) and stainless steel (30%). The Foundry specialises in Rhone varietals including Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne, that are also worth seeking out. 14.5%. £15.50
Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers 2020, Burgundy, France
This single-vineyard Pouilly-Fuissé is new to The Wine Society, and is a welcome and impressive addition to the range. To my palate it is classic, white Burgundy that offers a pleasing nod to old-school Meursault – at a very attractive price. The wine’s nine months on lees in new to five-year-old barriques and full malolactic fermentation has given this a creamy richness and roundness. Also in attendance are pear, cashew and butterscotch flavours with a hint of hazelnut and reduction. My only reservation is that it feels slightly soft and lacking in acidity. I’d therefore drink this hedonistic white sooner rather than later. 13%. £24.00
The Society's Exhibition Margaret River Chardonnay 2021, Western Australia
This cracking Aussie chardonnay, new to the Society’s Exhibition Range, is made by Robert Oatley Wines, based in the Margaret River. It’s also generous, complex and downright delicious. On the nose and palate are oodles of peachy stone fruit, toast, vanilla pod and lemon. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed into 50% new, 50% second and third fill medium-toast French oak barrels. Hence there’s butter and vanilla, but happily it hasn’t been overdone. Best of all, I love the acidity, bite and tension of this wine which weighs in at a very refreshing 11.5% alcohol. (Clearly, they picked the fruit early, but not unripe because it is definitely not ‘skinny’.) I’ve got some Robert Oatley Margaret River Chardonnays in my cellar made by the brilliant Larry Cherubino, and this is very much in the same tensile style. And, arguably, it’s better value. 11.5%. £14.95
Clos Floridène Blanc, Graves 2019, Bordeaux, France
A very sophisticated white Graves – just as you would expect from this benchmark producer and Bordeaux family whose fame and reputation are founded on the career of the late, great consultant oenologist and researcher, Denis Dubourdieu. The vines of Clos Floridène are grown on limestone soils which are ideally suited to wines of gravitas, depth and pleasure. This is a blend of 55% Semillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in barrel (new to fourth use). The result is a tightly-wound, fresh, wine that is clearly built for the long haul. That said, it also affords great pleasure now, especially as it opens and unfurls in the glass over time. NB: the complex palate of citrus fruits, spice, subtle sherbet and minerals unquestionably demand food. I also loved its balance, mid-weight structure and texture. Needless to say, the oak integration is exquisitely rendered and the finish is beautifully sustained. Class in a glass. 12.5%. £24.00
SK – star white wine of the tasting. The wine which made the leap from good wine to fine wine.
Kostheim Weiss Erd Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Künstler 2020, Rheingau, Germany
This wine, from one of the Rheingau’s top estates, was not entirely what I was expecting. It just felt a tad too rich and round in style for a dry German Riesling. That said, there is acidity here and lots of other good things, including some very appealing aromatics. There’s also plenty happening on the palate with ripe apricot and peaches, a hint of barley sugar and a perky nettle-infused bitterness on the finish. So, I did enjoy it – but just not quite as much as I wanted to. 12.5%. £26.00
SK – another Riesling from the list that was not one of John’s selections but which I have bought from The Wine Society is Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling Kabinett 020, delightful 8.5% alcohol, from Thomas Haag. There is a slight sweetness in the mid-palate, but it finishes dry. A wonderful balance of pineapple sweetness with a searing acidity, very moreish and great value at £13.95.
Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud, Morgon Côte du Py 2020, Beaujolais, France
A beautiful, benchmark Morgon Cru Beaujolais at an amazing price for this quality and pleasure. My advice is to fill your boots with this arresting red. Its nose is pure, bright Gamay fruit with a whiff of pepper. The palate provides juicy acidity with real lift and fruit (bramble and cherry) sweetness. The soft ripe tannin, slightly bitter edge and balance of this wine are sublime. I cannot praise enough its elegance, sophistication, personality and typicity. Young and immensely enjoyable now, it will also age and improve for several years to come. An absolute gem. 13%. £14.95
SK – a wine which reflects its vineyard, not the winemaker. Terrific value.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay Rouge 2018, Burgundy, France
Quite how The Wine Society have kept this at under £25 is a miracle for which members will be profoundly grateful. Sylvain Pataille is a master of his craft and this magnificent Marsannay is proper, grown-up red Burgundy. It is perfumed, sweetly fruited, elegantly understated and poised to perfection. There’s strawberry and raspberry alongside a deft touch of cream and spice. I loved the fine, chalky tannins and brisk acidity, despite the warmth of the vintage. The whole ensemble is lively, complex and supremely drinkable, affording huge pleasure now and in the future. 13%. £23.50
SK – star red wine of the tasting.
Weinert Carrascal Corte Tinto Mendoza 2018, Mendoza, Argentina
A blend of 40% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, this atypical, unpretentious wine is made by one of Argentina’s more traditional bodegas in Mendoza. Personally, I love its traditional, ‘European’ style. In particular, I adore its inky aroma, its savoury autumnal mellowness, its notes of leather, smoked meat and tobacco pouch. There’s decent fruit here too, in the form of dark cherry and blackberry. Meanwhile, the grainy tannins balance the acidity and medium/full structure. In my view, this isn’t a wine to age for any length of time. It’s a great-value winter warmer to enjoy with a good cut of meat over the next couple of years. 14%. £10.95
Glorioso Gran Reserva, Rioja 2015, Rioja, Spain
Whilst this Gran Reserva wine stood out at the Society’s London tasting, I was less keen on my second encounter when I opened it for dinner at home in November. Back in September it showed well – bright berry fruit, with density, heft and length. But in November, it came across as impenetrably monolithic, with an overly warm alcoholic finish. Even with a rich venison dish, the over-extracted kirsch-like fruit and dense structure were far too overpowering. Perhaps it needs more time to soften its brash intensity. But somehow, I doubt it. Sadly, a big disappointment. 14%. £19.00
SK – will be enjoyed by those who love power over finesse.
'Eagle-eared' listeners will have heard me say that the Glorioso Gran Reserva had ‘three' months ageing in bottle - whereas I meant to say 'years’. So I just wanted to correct my mistake and put the record straight…! John Stimpfig
Half Bottle of Samos Solera Aged Muscat Samos, Greece
This is unadulterated, sweet-wine heaven – all the way from Samos in Greece. It’s also a perfect Christmas wine that delivers on every level – price, quality, personality, style and winemaking. Made from 100% Muscat vines, using the time-honoured fractional Solera blending system; you’ll find a mix of vintages here, from 1955 up to 2016. The end product is a sublime, vin de liqueur of enormous complexity, depth, colour and texture. And while it’s supremely sweet, with 233 g/l of residual sugar, it miraculously tastes vibrant and fresh, with high notes of figs, nuts, toffee, praline and raisins. Drink and enjoy with cheese, nuts, Christmas cake, desserts, or on its own. 15%. £23.00/half bottle
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