▻ Ornellaia

---

In conversation with Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp

---

Episode Summary:-

Sarah Kemp and Jane Anson report on a historic tasting of five decades of Ornellaia, which was recently held in Venice. It is a good time to take stock, as estate director Axel Heinz has just left to return to Bordeaux, where he takes charge at Château Lagrange, and the head oenologist, Olga Fusari, is leaving to join another Tuscan estate; both have been with Ornellaia for 18 years. Shortly after the tasting was held, it was announced that Marco Balsimelli, who studied oenology in Italy and Bordeaux, was returning to Italy to take over the reins at Ornellaia and Masseto, after having worked alongside the renowned Bordeaux consultant Eric Boissenot and at Château Gruard-Larose. To add to the feeling of thorough change, it was announced on the night of the tasting that Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja, who has been CEO for 27 years, was retiring.

---

In the sumptuous surroundings of the Palazzo Pisani Moretta, eight vintages were served; the oldest was the 1988, the youngest the newly released 2020. Jane and Sarah discuss Ornellaia’s move over the years from shorter ageing time and more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend to the latest vintages, where longer ageing has taken place, with more Cabernet Franc in the blend.

 Favourite vintage? The 1998, which Sarah describes as a “heart-breaker” and of “First Growth quality.” Jane’s favourite wine was also the 1998 vintage but amongst the other wines she singled out the 1988. and at the tasting there was a general consensus amongst the 25 tasters that it was showing better than the 1993 vintage. However, Sarah was not in total agreement, and found the 1993 vintage to have singular, great charm, reminding her of a mature and slightly fading Right Bank classified growth. She reflects that it might be that her first tasting experiences in the late 1970s and early 1980s were with older wines, whereas, as Jane points out, today we are used to tasting great wines with more primary fruit. Both agreed that the 2003 was a total surprise, with an amazing amount of freshness for a hot year. 2013 is a celebrated year in Tuscany, and the 2013 Ornellaia lived up to the vintage’s reputation. Jane declared herself to be charmed by the subtle spice of the 2011, which was also remarkably youthful. Sarah and Jane were both impressed by the 2020 vintage, full of muscular power and depth of fruit, but Sarah hopes that despite it being impressive now, some will be kept back, as it will age beautifully. Despite the estate sticking to the four main grapes of Bordeaux, Jane notes, “You never think you are in Bordeaux, with the Tuscan spice and fennel.” Olga Fusari, who led the tasting, talked affectionately about the wines, and told Jane afterwards that everything she had learnt about wine she had learnt from Ornellaia.  

The results of the 2020 Vendemmia d’Artista auction, which had taken place with Sotheby’s, was announced: $300,000 was raised for the charity project “Mind’s Eye,” under the auspices of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which enables accessibility for art for the blind and people of low vision. Double magnums, imperials and bottles were sold, with Joseph Kosuth’s striking design, using words etched into the bottles, dramatizing the charity’s aims.

The one thing Jane and Sarah completely agreed on was that it was a “tasting of a lifetime,” and they were both excited about the next chapters from Marco Balsimelli.

---

Running Order:-

• 0.00 – 8.00
  

  “The one I considered a heart-breaker, truly outstanding, of First Growth quality, was the 1998.” – Sarah Kemp
  
  – Five decades of Ornellaia tasting held in Venice.
  – Changes in the winemaking team at Ornellaia.
  – Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja to retire.
  – Discussion of vintages at the tasting.

• 8.01 – 16.21
  

  “You never think you are in Bordeaux, there is Tuscan spice and fennel.” – Jane Anson
  
  – Discussion of Bordeaux flavours v. Tuscan.
  – Discussion of 2011 and 2020 vintage.
  – Amount raised by the 2020 Vendemmia d’Artista auction with artist Joseph Kosuth.

RELATED POSTS

---

Insider's guide to the perfect footwear (when visiting the smartest of châteaux)

---

Keep up with our adventures in wine

---

▴ Top: LH Marchese Ferdinando Frescobaldi, Giovanni Geddes da Filicaja, Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi – seated artist Joseph Kosuth with his dog, Dogma

▴ Above: Marco Balsimelli

---

Further Information:

Ornellaia.com