▻ Pessac-Léognan with Jane Anson

10 Minute Masterclass

15 Feb

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Jane Anson

Episode Summary:-

Jane Anson and Sarah Kemp take a deep dive into one of their favourite appellations, Pessac-Léognan. Located on the left bank of the Garonne river, south of the city of Bordeaux, Pessac-Léognan’s soils are among the most widely varied in the region–which explains why both serious reds and whites can be produced. Geographically, the appellation is spread over 10 communes, which are inside and outside the Bordeaux ring-road known as the Rocade. Six châteaux actually lie within the Bordeaux city limits; those châteaux, the most impacted by the urban influence, are: Châteaux Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pique Caillou, Pape Clément and Luchey-Halde.

In 1987, AOC Pessac-Léognan had 55 estates totalling 813 hectares, producing 75% red and 25% white wine. Today there are 70 châteaux across 1,800ha, with a ratio of 80:20 red to white. The most famous is Château Haut-Brion.

The appellation has also attracted a lot of overseas owners, with Americans at Haut-Bailly, Haut-Brion and Olivier. The newest estate is Clos Cabana, a 1.5ha estate owned by two childhood friends, Arthur Fournier and François Balaresque, their first vintage was 2022.

Pessac-Léognan’s vines often ripen early: it’s not unusual to see the first white grapes being picked in mid- to late August. The style is rich, sleek, balanced and ripe.

It is Bordeaux’s youngest AOC, but the region’s history dates back to the Romans, who were the first to grow vines here 2,000 years ago. The estates here used the Graves name until 1987, when the new Pessac-Léognan AOC was created. The Crus Classés de Graves ranking dates back to 1953, finally completed in 1959. All estates in the Graves region asked to be considered, but the final listing awarded the title to just 13 red and nine white wines, only in the northern section of the region and split across 14 estates (only six were classified for both colours: Carbonnieux, Malartic-Lagravière, Latour Martillac, Bouscaut, Olivier and Domaine de Chevalier).

Recently the appellation launched a new image for Pessac Léognan, L'esprit Bordeaux, linking it firmly to the city.

Pessac-Léognan’s price per hectare of land rocketed when it became an appellation. Recently (in 2022) it reversed its steep gains, with the average price per hectare falling for the first time since the creation of the appellation, from €650,000 to €500,000 per hectare. In the neighbouring Graves appellation, average prices fell back further, from €32,000 to €27,000 per hectare.

Obscure fact: Pessac-Léognan got two major boosts of publicity in 2023, with King Charles 3rd and Queen Camilla visiting Florence and Daniel Cathiard of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, and later in the year Beyoncé and Jay-Z privatised all of Les Sources de Caudalie, the luxurious hotel run by Florence and Daniel’s daughter, Alice Tourbier.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 5.01

“They make their wines with as much ambition as you would see in Pauillac or St Emilion.” – Jane Anson

– Where Pessac-Léognan is located.
– Number of producers.
– The classified growths of the appellation.
– Appellation’s most famous names.
5.02 – 10.00

“It is one of my favourite appellations.” – Sarah Kemp

– The style of the red and white wines.
– The history of the appellation.
– Recent changes.
– Price of the land.
– Jane’s obscure fact.