▻ Sicily with David Gleave MW

10 Minute Masterclass

9 Jan

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with David Gleave MW

Episode Summary:-

In this 10-Minute Masterclass episode, David Gleave MW explores Sicily, the land of which Homer wrote

“At last our ships approached the Cyclops’ coast.
That race is arrogant: They have no laws;
And trusting in the never-dying gods,
Their hands plant nothing and they ply no plows.
The Cyclops do not need to sow their seeds;
For them all things, untouched, spring up; from wheat
To barley and to vines that yield fine wine.

David explores the rich history of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean. (To put its scale in context, it is bigger than Wales or Massachusetts). It has a very varied landscape, with 60 percent of the land taken up by hills, 15 percent plains, and 25 percent mountains. Wine was produced on Sicily 4000 BC, and the Phoenicians brought in vines from the country now known as Lebanon in 1300 BC. After that, came an array of conquerors and traders: Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and the English, creating a complex, vibrant and rich culture.

David discusses the different areas where vines are grown and the varieties best suited to each of the areas. Etna is particularly exciting, attracting the interest of winemakers (as well as journalists and sommeliers) at the moment. There’s been a recent massive growth in the number of producers, from 60 a decade ago to 440 today. Among the many producers who have decided to plant there is the legendary Angelo Gaja, who has a joint project there called “Idda”.

The grape varieties David discusses includes, for whites, Cataratto (Sicily’s most planted variety), Grillo, Vermentino, Zibibbo, Malvasia di Lipari, Fiano, Inzolia and Grecanico Dorato. The latter is the same variety as Garganega, the principal grape of Soave, “I think it is the best Italian grape variety,” David enthuses.

Red grape varieties include Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio, Frappatto (best known in Vittoria), Perricone (once widely planted but failed to recover post phylloxera) and Nero d’Avola, which is now being made in a more delicate way, with less extraction than before.

Recommended producers include – De Bartoli, Donnafugata, Planeta, Tasca d’Almarita (Regaleali), Mandrarossa, Cusumano, Morgante, Gulfi, Tenuta Terre Nere, COS, Passopisciaro, Paolo Caciorgna, IDDA from Gaja.

“Sicily used to be about blending,” David reveals, noting that it once produced three times as much wine as it does today. “What we are seeing is more variety from Sicily, a New Sicily… It’s geographically diverse, it’s stylistically diverse.” One thing for sure is that it is an exciting time for wine on Italy’s historic island.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 7.36

“It is geographically diverse, it is stylistically diverse”

– Position and size of Sicily.
– Sicily’s history.
– The five key regions of Sicily and the grapes planted there.
7.37 – 11.33

“Grecanico Dorato – I think is the best Italian grape variety.”

– The best producers to know.
– Why Sicily is so exciting.