✒ Wines Worth Talking About – Argentina
During my week in Argentina, I tasted many very good wines, but here is my personal selection of wines I think are really worth talking about. Some are relatively inexpensive, some rate as world-class fine wine with a commensurate price tag attached, but what they all have in common is that they are definitely worth seeking out.
There is an amazing energy and dynamism driving the industry today, and a clear direction in making wines which speak of the place. There were so many calicatas (pits to see soil profile) that I nicknamed the producers the moles of Argentina. Only occasionally did I find over-oaked wines, which had been all too familiar in the past. The two tastings of older wines at Finca Decero and Catena Zapata demonstrated the age-ability of great Argentine reds. I cannot help thinking that they will be the collectables of tomorrow, and with the top wines now being sold on the Place de Bordeaux, they are ripe for discovery for any savvy collector. Happily, there is much to love at price points for those with less deep pockets, to drink now and lay down.
After a week in the vineyards, I am more convinced than ever that this is Argentine wine’s golden moment.
Otronia Brut Nature 100% Chardonnay – This is a very classy bottle of fizz from Chubut Patagonia. Made from organic grapes, it resembles Chablis in its minerality and purity. A core of green apples, some citrus, with a chalky texture which gently persists. Refined, and ideal for fizz lovers who like their wine bone-dry.
2015 El Esteco Chanar Punco – Chanar Punco is located southwest within the Calchaqui Valley at nearly 2,000 metres above sea level. The El Esteco Chanar Punco 2015 is a brilliant explosion of ripe fresh black and blue fruit – think Pomerol on steroids. But this is not some monster, there is mountain freshness, well-integrated tannins, and superbly controlled length.
2018 Decero Malbec, Remolinos Vineyard, Agrelo, Mendoza – This single-vineyard Malbec, from the Agrelo sub-appellation of Mendoza, is simply outstanding. the nose is full of enticing, cool mountain berry fruit, on the palate blackcurrants and redcurrants are layered with wild herbs, dark chocolate, all savoury and very moreish. The tannins are velvety, and the whole package is one of controlled power and flavours that dance around your palate and go on forever. Stunning. 14.5%
Cambridge Wine Merchants £17.99 per bottle
2020 Flight of the Condor Malbec, Mendoza – This 100% Malbec jumps out of the glass with its bright uplifted blackberry nose, while the palate reveals vibrant black cherry and cassis; its amazing freshness and supple tannins provide structure to the generous fruit. Utterly moreish.
2009 Decero Amano, Remolinos Vineyard, 60% Malbec, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Tannat – Moulin Rouge excitement, a total crowd-pleaser. This wine exudes personality with its core of intense black fruit, liquorice, dark chocolate, bags of energy – BOTOX wine? Certainly no signs of ageing here. Hugely seductive and enjoyable, will last but I don’t think many will want to wait.
2011 Decero Amano, Remolinos Vineyard, 64% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Tannat – If the 2009 Decero Amano was full-powered excitement, the 2011 is elegant restraint, and proof that vintages do matter in Argentina. There is a beautiful generosity to this wine, with its stunning core of firm red and black fruit, wild herbs and mint. A striking personality, powerful restraint and delicious freshness.
2021 Bodega Bianchi Famiglia Chardonnay – Chablis-style Chardonnay with an attractive greenish colour, beautiful lime expression, firm core of citric and white fruit, and meadow herbs. The wine undergoes no malo and has natural acidity. 15% old oak barrels. Very classy.
2019 Enzo Bianchi Gran Malbec – The flagship wine from Bodega Bianchi. This wine, made by celebrated winemaker Silvio Alberto, comes from Los Chacayes, which has lots of rock in the alluvial soils. There is a terrific freshness to this wine, which shows a deep core of succulent black and red fruit, minerality and fine tannins; there is controlled energy to this wine, and while it is drinking beautifully, it will also age with grace.
2021 Famiglia Bianchi Viognier – This is a category-changing Viognier, and the biggest surprise of my recent trip to Argentina. It has all the aromatics you want from Viognier, but none of the cloying aspect which often polarises wine lovers. Made with no oak; the grapes are picked in two tranches, the first to capture the white flowers and citric notes, the second two weeks later to capture the more tropical-fruit aspects of the varietal. The two tranches are vinified separately and then blended. On the nose, there is an explosion of wild flowers with an inviting freshness. On the palate, a chalky texture, minerality and a core of very elegant apricot and greengage fruit, mountain herbs thread their way through, ending with a mint freshness which persists. All beautifully balanced and integrated to deliver a remarkable wine. 13% abv.
2019 Trapiche Iscay Malbec and Cabernet Franc – It’s 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Franc; the Malbec is sourced from Gualtallary and the Cabernet Franc from La Consulta. This is a wine with huge personality, there is a heady nose of blackberries and cedar, on the palate an attack of bright red and black fruit with masses of spice, dark chocolate notes in the mid-palate and hints of leather. Full-bodied and for those who love their Malbecs big and bold. 15% abv
Simply Wines Direct £26.99 per bottle
2020 Trapiche Costa & Pampa Chardonnay – The cool oceanic influence is evident in this 13% Chardonnay from the Chapadmalal region near Buenos Aires. Granny Smith apples and citric notes, racy acidity, very pure and refreshing. An exciting direction for mid-priced Argentina Chardonnay. No wonder Trapiche are happy with pioneering this region.
Simply Wines Direct £13.99 per bottle
2020 Trapiche Costa & Pampa Sauvignon Blanc – I could have almost mistaken this for a Bordeaux white. This dry-farmed Sauvignon Blanc from Trapiche’s new ocean-adjacent vineyards at Chapadmalal has the classic herbaceous qualities you’d find in the Graves. On the nose, inviting fresh herbs, citric notes intermingle with wild herbs, beautifully restrained and very moreish.
2020 Finca La Anita Cabernet Franc – It is easy to forget, with all the talk of the Uco Valley, that Agrelo is where the reputation of Argentina’s wine started. This Cabernet Franc is vinified from Alto Agrelo and is a great example of how that variety flourishes in Argentina. Made from relatively young vines, the wine has lots of energy, a core of fresh red fruit, rich chocolate notes, wild herbs, minerals and a very saline finish.
2017 Finca La Anita Magna Malbec – The flagship wine of Finca La Anita in Agrelo. The grapes are picked from two parcels in the vineyard, and the wine has an attractive uplifted bouquet of crushed blackberries, on the palate juicy brambles are deftly defined, plenty of energy, charm and elegance. The finish is long and savoury. Impressive.
2020 Chakana Ayni Chardonnay – Ayni means “reciprocity,” and this sums up the whole approach at Chakana, who are dedicated to organic and biodynamic practices. Ayni comes from Altamira, up at 1,300 metres. There is a tight, intense purity to the fruit, a core of firm green apples, minerals abound--this is all about vineyard expression. Pure class.
2021 Chakana Nuna Red Blend – A blend of Malbec, Tannat, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this biodynamic wine has an inviting bouquet of blackcurrants, while on the palate there are waves of red and black fruit, gentle but firm silky tannins, all very lyrical, with delightful saline finish. Elegance and controlled power personified.
Vinvm £12.99 per bottle
2015 Cheval des Andes – The estate was founded in 1999, and the first vintage of Cheval des Andes was in 2001. The vineyard has ungrafted old Malbec vines, with one block of Malbec dating back to 1929, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2015 is simply outstanding. It has all the muscularity of a lean matador, there is drama here, and beauty. The fruit is alive, pure, energetic, delicious black and brambles swirl, coupled with the freshness of newly picked herbs. Tannins are fine and integrated, and the result is a wine of impeccable breeding which can stand shoulder to shoulder with any of the great wines of the world.
Clos 19 £85 per bottle
2018 Cheval des Andes – The 2018 is the vinous twin of 2015. More austere at the moment, the deep layers of black and red fruit are coiled--there is juiciness here, it’s just ready to reveal itself. A very serious fine wine with pent-up dynamism.
Cru World Wine £370 per 6 bottles
2021 Zuccardi Fosil – I have been a fan of this wine since its first vintage. It’s like Chablis in style, full of elegant mountain fruit, green notes abounding, wild herbs, a core of green apple. The chalky texture is mouth-watering, minerality shines through – a vinous cool river with its endless waves of mountain flavours.
Millesima £270 per 6 bottles
2020 Zuccardi Concreto – Complex layers of fresh black and red fruit, wild herbs with a savoury mint character prevail. This wine has a purity and direction, straight as an arrow. The texture is chalky, the tannins firm but refined. Whole bunches are fermented in concrete and foot-trodden, as Sebastian Zuccardi believes it is a beneficial, softer way to crush.
Tanners £28 per bottle
2018 Zuccardi Aluvional Gualtallary – Gultallary is the name wine connoisseurs are looking for more and more, and this wine is another reason why. Full force of Andes Malbec flavours, wild sage, thyme, rich core of endless pure red and black fruit, with silky tannins; there is depth here and balance too, no make-up showing, just the natural expression of the vineyard. An outstanding wine.
2009 Nicolas Catena Zapata – The wine is made from 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec from pre-phylloxera Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon massal selections from ungrafted vines. The nose has classic cedar notes, on the palate there’s a core of firm remarkably fresh red and blue fruit that exudes generosity. There is concentration here, with layers of dark chocolate, black pepper and spices that deliver a structured, elegant wine of restrained power and beauty. 14% abv
2006 Nicolas Catena Zapata – Made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Malbec. The wine is still remarkably youthful, with the fruit firm and very fresh. The classic Cabernet Sauvignon characters dominate, the wine is multi-layered with a core of raspberry and plum fruit, mint and wild herbs. Cashmere tannins are well integrated, and it has a long life ahead.
Fine and Rare Wines £800 per 6 bottles
2005 Nicolas Catena Zapata – This wine can be described by two words: “pure joy.” Superb vineyard expression, waves and waves of glorious ripe blue and black fruit, richness abounds but with much lightness of touch. Everything has come together to deliver a wine of enormous character and charm, fresh, elegant and full of joie de vivre. A truly great fine wine. 14%
2001 Nicolas Catena Zapata – It’s 52% Cabernet Sauvignon 48% Malbec, and total proof of the wonderful ageing ability of Argentina’s great red wines. The fruit has that wonderful mellow sweetness which comes from age, but everything is still fresh and seamlessly elegant. There is a creamy texture to the tannins, and a beautiful natural purity. Still very vibrant, and has years to go.
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So many great wines, but here are my personal favourites from a week in the vineyards. From world-class to terrific value, much to talk about.