▻ En Primeur 2020
In conversation with Jane Anson
Episode Summary:-
Sarah Kemp talks to Bordeaux expert Jane Anson about En Primeur and the 2020 vintage, which is she is in the middle of reviewing. Jane talks about how she approaches tasting the young samples and what she is looking for in order to assess how the wines will develop. They talk about the pros and cons of tasting samples blind, and Jane explains why she prefers to have as much information as possible at En Primeur, despite the value of blind tasting. The success and failures of previous vintage campaigns are discussed, and she explains why she believes the 2019 En Primeur campaign was such a success.
Jane describes the challenges the vintners faced with the Covid restrictions during the 2020 vintage, and how on top of the human challenges that social distancing and lockdown brought, the weather conditions did not prove to be ideal either. There was a small frost early in the year in the Entre-Deux-Mers and parts of Saint Emilion, rain in the Spring which brought mildew pressure, then the driest summer since 1959 concluded by a very dry August, heat spikes in September followed by rain at the end of that month.
The yields are, on average, 25% lower than normal, and the wines have quite a lot of tannins, but still retain freshness, she reveals. Due to the slow ripening, the alcohols will be around 0.5 to 1% less than the 2019 and 2018 vintages. She finds there are some beautiful wines, but the fruit is not as exuberant as 2015 or 2009. The wines of Saint Emilion are singled out for particular praise, though Jane also notes about how she feels the 10-year classification puts pressure on the estates.
Sarah and Jane talk about the market conditions for releasing the wines. Jane reports there is quite a lot of stock in the châteaux cellars, as life is not back to normal, with airlines flying at vastly reduced capacities and restaurants closed. However, she says, “the Bordelais don’t tend to like to do two inexpensive vintages in a row.” The pressure of low yields and the frost of 2021, they agree, will be taken into the pricing equation.
““At the time of En Primeur you are not looking at is this wine tasting good today, that is not the point of it, it’s a strange exercise in so many ways” ”
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 9.00
“En Primeur – it’s like a jigsaw puzzle.”
Jane has been reviewing En Primeur for Decanter Magazine since 2014, and in 2017 became their sole taster. Sarah and Jane discuss why En Primeur sales declined from their height in the 2009 vintage and the reason 2019 was a success.
They talk about En Primeur week, when 5-6,000 people normally arrive in Bordeaux to taste the young wines, and how in 2020 and 2021 this hasn’t been possible due to the pandemic. -
9.01 – 15.20
“Assessing is this wine going to age and knowing a bit about the background is quite helpful.”
Sarah and Jane discuss the advantages and disadvantages of tasting the samples blind and talk about the reasons why it was decided to taste all the wines knowing where they came from. Jane says, “I like to have as much information as possible so that I can put it together and help that jigsaw come together, so I am helping consumers who are making the choices to spend their money or not.” -
15.21 – 26.51
“2020 was the driest summer since 1959.”
Jane describes how the first lockdown confinement came as the vines were in full bud, and if there were no workers in, the estates were having to play catch-up later. In 2020 Bordeaux saw pockets of frost, mildew pressure, the driest summer since 1959, heat spikes in September and then rain at the end of September. As a result of the September heat Cabernet Sauvignon yields were lower than expected, leading to quite a lot of tannins. Despite this, Jane, still in the middle of tasting, is finding wines with freshness, though she notes that it is not a homogenous vintage. She describes 2020 as a more classical Bordeaux vintage, with less exuberant fruit than 2009 or 2015. -
26.52 – 33.40
“Saint Emilion – the 10-year classification puts pressure on these estates.”
Saint Emilion has impressed Jane this year, and she talks about how much she has enjoyed the last three vintages. She singles out Château Canon and Château Troplong Mondot for particular praise and believes Peter Sisseck’s Château Rocheyron deserves a wider following.
She also explains how yields at Château Lynch Bages have dropped to 22 hl/ha, half the normal vintage, and says while yields for Merlot were normal, Cabernet Sauvignon’s yields were reduced, leading to smaller, more concentrated berries. -
33.41 – 37.00
“The Bordelais don’t like to do two inexpensive vintages in a row.”
Jane and Sarah discuss the market conditions for releasing the wines. While the Bordelais are not known for offering two inexpensive vintages in a row, the pandemic has meant there are stocks of wines in Bordeaux, with sales to airlines and restaurants greatly reduced. While it is early days to make predictions, Jane and Sarah believe there are some beautiful wines in 2020, though it is not a homogenous vintage. Jane signs off with a promise to report back soon.
RELATED POSTS
Keep up with our adventures in wine
Lorenzo Pasquini talk to Elin McCoy about his life at Château d’Yquem. From childhood dreams of becoming a professional fencer to landing the ultimate wine job, discover his amazing story.