▻ Montalcino with David Gleave MW
In conversation with David Gleave MW
Episode Summary:-
In our latest 10-Minute Masterclass, David Gleave MW takes a look at Montalcino, famed for its long-lived red Brunello di Montalcino. David begins by explaining its somewhat odd topography: Montalcino is in southern Tuscany, 40 km south of Siena, 500 km above sea level and 40 km from the sea, where it is bordered by three rivers. Despite being surrounded by water, it is the driest of all the Tuscan DOCGs.
Only 15 percent of its 24,000 hectares is planted to vines, and of those 3,000ha, 2,100 are planted to Sangiovese in the principal appellation, with 500 more in Rosso di Montalcino. “If you go back to 1968, there were only 56 hectares of vines – it has grown dramatically in the last 50 years,” says David. The most famous wine from the region is Brunello di Montalcino, but more recently Rosso di Montalcino’s reputation has risen; the catch-all for all other grapes is Sant’Antimo. The most historic wine from the area is Moscadello di Montalcino, a sweet, slightly fizzy wine.
There are over 100 clones of Sangiovese registered, and the taste of the wines depends very much on where they are planted. David explains that this diversity helps with the complexity of the wine. Back in the 1870s, Clemente Santi took a modern approach, using massal selection in the vineyard, propagating and planting the best vines. “It is a very complex set of soils in Montalcino, probably because it has been under water twice, which adds to its complexity,” he adds.
David believes that Montalcino should develop sub-zones, as Chianti has done, but recognises that many producers realise that having the name Montalcino on the label is a good thing, and don’t want to change. One of reasons he believes there should be sub-zones is that there is sometimes a 10-day difference in harvesting between the south and the north, leading to a difference of style in the wines. The vineyards in the north are more like Chianti, with beautiful scent and elegant tannins, in the middle of the region you find more power and elegance, whilst in the south the wines are more muscular in tone.
Famous producers include Biondi-Santi as founder, and on the rise again; Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera; Argiano; Costanti; Fuligni; La Pieve di Santa Restituta from Gaja, Villa Banfi, and Lisini.
David’s up-and-coming producers are Le Ragnaie from Ricccardo Campinoti; Cordella; Voliero; and he expects to see Castiglione del Bosco come back – they have lots of promise.
If looking for value, David recommends trying a “baby Brunello” – an excellent Rosso di Montalcino, for example from Fuligni.
As for the future, David sees producers moving to higher altitudes, and is excited about the new Antinori venture at 600 metres – certainly one to watch.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 6.20
“There are many different clones of Sangiovese in Montalcino, and that diversity helps with the complexity of the wines.”
– Where Montalcino is situated and how much is under vine.
– The different wines from Montalcino.
– Sangiovese in Montalcino, and its clones. -
6.21 – 10.59
“Sometimes there is ten days difference between picking in the south and picking in the north, giving a difference in the style of wine.”
– Terroir of Montalcino.
– Famous producers and upcoming producers.
– Where to find value.
– Different styles of wine.
Italian expert David Gleave MW guides us through the region’s diverse terroir and different wine styles.